Daily Archives: June 27, 2015

6/20

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Sandhill Cranes

Sandhill Cranes

6/20 Went to the Fort Simpson Visitor Center, which had an interesting exhibit of local history, and used their internet; it wasn’t fast but did allow us to make some phone calls. As we left the Center a flock of Sandhill Cranes stalked across an adjacent field looking for food. We then went to watch the Hand Games. The games, a traditional Dene sport, are actually quite subtle and complicated but a simplistic explanation is as follows: There are two teams each with 4-10 players and 10 – 20 supporters with hide drums. Each member of the team that is up has a pebble which he, or she (although the teams we saw were only men) shows to the opposing team and then hides in his hands. The hands are then placed under a sheet and the pebble is passed back and forth between the hands, to the accompaniment of banging drums. During the drumming the opposing team’s captain, using hand signals, directs certain players to show their hands. Eventually, the captain bets, using sticks, on which hand a certain player has hidden the pebble. A game may last all day or until one team has won all the sticks. It was fun the watch but difficult to pick up the signals. After watching the games we went the vendor’s field and feasted on scrumptious moose stew. Up here moose, caribou, beaver and bear, among other wildlife, appear on local menus quite frequently.

Betting Sticks

Betting Sticks

Hand Games

Hand Games

The Captain Signals

The Captain Signals

More Hand Games

More Hand Games

Hand Games Again

Hand Games Again

 

6/19

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6/19     Left Ft Providence early since we didn’t know what conditions on the 70 mi gravel part of Rt 1 would be; as it turned out, very good but dusty and dirty. Stopped at Sambaa Deh Falls Territorial Park to view the falls. Had a delightful conversation with Ranger Ray who filled us in on the trails, fossils and morel hunting in and around the park. He also clued us in to the goings on in Ft Simpson – this weekend is the 3rd Annual Łĺĺdļļ Kųę First Nation Traditional Spring Gathering which has many games, dances and free BBQs. Walked, with the dogs down to the falls; Tat sprained his paw so I had to carry him back, so we never made it to the falls. Samba Deh is a beautiful park and would be a delightful place to camp and spend several days hiking and enjoying, unfortunately, we can’t dally, Alaska beckons. Left the park and continued; about 5mi further on we encountered a black bear strolling down the road towards us. About 50 mi down the road we had a free ferry ride across the Liard River and several miles after we reached Fort Simpson where we camped at the Fort Simpson Territorial Park.

Liard River Ferry

Liard River Ferry

Black Bear

Black Bear

6/18

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6/18    Started towards Fort Simpson, retracing Rt 3 – no buffalo this time. Drove through the town of Fort Providence, a simple one general store town on the banks of the Mackenzie River. Surprisingly, the town also had a fairly large medical clinic; how a town of 450 people, in the middle of nowhere, can support the clinic is a mystery. Camped at Fort Providence Territorial Park and caught a nice sized northern pike for dinner. Saw several bald eagles soaring over the river.